Khajuraho – A marvel in sandstone
Kandariya Mahadev Temple
Khajuraho is a small town situated in Chhatarur district of Madhya Pradesh. It is famous for a number of beautifully carved temples, built between 970 to 1030 AD by the Chandela dynasty in Nagara style of architecture. The temples are a symbol of amalgamation of both the Hindu and Jain style of construction and are situated within Vindhya mountain range in Bundlekhand region of central India. The site is surrounded by small hills and rivers which is typical of Hindu temples. In the ancient times Khajuraho was known as 'Khajur-vahika' or 'Khajjurpura' because of presence of golden date palms known as 'khajur' which lined the gates of the city.
As per the historical records Khajuraho temple complex originally consisted of 85 temples spread over 20 square kilometers. Of these only 20 temples spread over 6 square kilometers can be seen today. Dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesha, Sun god and Jain Tirthankaras these temples represent a tradition of acceptance and respect for diverse religious views. Kandariya Mahadeva temple is the biggest and best preserved of the surviving temples.
The history of Khajuraho and the temples is shrouded in mystery regarding their significance, the reason why only the temples were built, why no mansions and palaces were built in its vicinity or why the walls of a religious place have graphic representation of sexual and erotic postures. The real intention behind constructing these temples is not known and can only be speculated from local folklore and little written records and references that are available. Khajuraho finds mention in the memoirs written by Ibn Battuta a Moroccan traveller about his visit to the Khajuraho between 1335 to 1342 AD, he referred to it as Kajarra.
Chaturbhuja temple
The temples are grouped into three geographical divisions, western, eastern and southern and are clustered near water, which is a typical style of construction by Hindus. All the temples except the Chaturbhuja temple face the rising sun, another important symbolic feature found predominantly in Hindu temples. The art work adorning the inner and outer walls of the temples symbolically highlight the four goals of Hindu life dharma, kama, artha and moksha. The sculptures have fine detailing like strands of hair, manicured nails, intricate jewellery, everyday life and mood has been beautifully captured in great detail. The Khajuraho temples are made from good quality sandstone, sourced from nearby Khajuraho and Kalinjar region. Surprisingly there is no use of mortar and the intricately carved stones have been put together with mortise and tenon joints and held together by gravity. This form of construction requires very precise joints, planning and hundreds of highly skill labour.
The erotic sculptures have not been especially highlighted and are a part of series of other sculptures adorning the walls of the temple. Many a times they can only be sighted when the guide draws our attention to them. The temples of Khajuraho have become famous around the world as love temples but in reality the erotic sculptures form only 10% of the total carvings while 90% of the artwork on the temple walls depict different aspects the everyday life like women applying makeup, ladies helping each other in grooming, playful scenes, people playing music, animals and carvings showing men and women in myriad dance forms as well as and mythical stories. McConnachie in his history of the Kamasutra, describes the sexual-themed Khajuraho sculptures as "Twisting, broad-hipped and high breasted nymphs display their generously contoured and bejewelled bodies on exquisitely worked exterior wall panels. These fleshy apsaras run riot across the surface of the stone, putting on make-up, washing their hair, playing games, dancing, and endlessly knotting and unknotting their girdles. Besides the heavenly nymphs are serried ranks of griffins, guardian deities and most notoriously, extravagantly interlocked maithunas or lovemaking couples."
The emphasis on dance and music can be predominantly seen in the temple carvings. Since ancient times dance and music in India has been looked upon as an expression of inner self. Even gods and goddesses have been known to enjoy dance and music. To celebrate this love for classical Indian art forms, Khajuraho dance festival is held every year in the month of February. The week long festival sees dance performances by renowned artistes of India who perform against the backdrop of Chitragupta or Vishwanath Temples.
A sound and light show is held every evening in Hindi and English which recreates the life and times of the great Chandela dynasty and traces the story of Khajuraho temples in the mesmerizing voice of superstar Amitabh Bachchan. The State Museum of Tribal and Folk Arts displays a fine collection of tribal artifacts, terracotta, wood and metal craft, folk paintings and many more in its Chandela Cultural Complex
The beautiful artwork on temples of Khajuraho is breadth taking to say the least. This marvel in sandstone stands tall with its rich architecture. Due to its intricate artwork, paneling and uniqueness it has been rightly declared as a UNESCO world heritage site and is a protected monument.
Where to stay
A bouquet of star hotels from affordable 1 star to 5 star are available for a comfortable stay. Hotels like Payal, Jhankar and Tourist village by MP tourism provide value for money good accommodation and food. Conferencing facility for corporate guests is also available. For budget travelers Bed and Breakfast arrangement is also available within the city.
How to reach Khajuraho
Khajuraho can be reached by road from Nagpur in around 10 hours via Nagpur Chindwara Sagar NH86 or via Nagpur Jabalpur NH7. A number of trains connect Nagpur to Satna, From Satna its two and a half hour drive to Khajuraho.
Best Time to visit
July to March is an excellent times to visit Khajuraho and nearby places.
Tourist attractions near Khajuraho
Raneh Falls
32 Kms from Khajuraho is Panna National park. The park is home to a number of tigers and other big cats as well as other wild animals. Along the way to Panna are the spectacular Pandav falls, while Raneh falls, Ranguan lake and Dhubela Museum are nearby. Rajgarh palace near Khajurahi is now being converted in a heritage hotel. Bandhavgarh National Park and Chitrakoot are interesting destination further away.
For bookings contact -0712 2442378 at MP Tourism, Nagpur
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